“Life changes,” Clackamas County Circuit Court Judge Kathie Steele wrote. “Banning the public outright is unreasonable”
An Oregon judge has issued a ruling that effectively makes the waters of Oswego Lake open to the public, though it could be appealed. The decision issued Wednesday finds the city of Lake Oswego’s ordinance that blocks public access to the lake violates state law.
Access to the lake is restricted to members of the Lake Oswego Corporation, which is primarily made up of people who own properties — most of them large, pricey homes — that surround the water. City residents can access a seasonal swim park on Oswego Lake. The general public is not allowed to enter to swim, fish or boat.
Clackamas County Circuit Court Judge Kathie Steele began her seven-page opinion noting that in the past, women weren’t judges or attorneys; old property deeds used to prohibit the sale or ownership to people of color; Congress didn’t prohibit gender discrimination in public schools until 1972; women in Oregon weren’t allowed to open bank accounts without their parents or husbands as co-signers until 1974 and couples of the same gender couldn’t legally marry one another in Oregon until 2014.
“Life changes,” Steele wrote. “The issue before the court here is, under current laws, regulations, and rules, has life changed enough to affect how we treat and protect the public’s interest in Oswego Lake.”
Small metal signs adorn steps leading down to Oswego Lake’s shore in a public park read: “Private Lake – Please stay on the steps.” Access to Oswego Lake is restricted to city residents only.
Conrad Wilson / OPB
Steele acknowledged that the city can set limits on access, but said the current restrictions go too far.
“Managing the risks is reasonable in Oswego Lake,” Steele wrote. “Banning the public outright is unreasonable.”
“The court’s thoughtful decision reaffirms an important principle of Oregon law and one of our state’s values: that our rivers, lakes and streams belong to the people,” said Nadia Dahab, an attorney representing Prager and Kramer.
Lake Oswego Corporation Board President Justin Harnish said it was willing to work with the city and plaintiffs to try and find a solution that works for everyone.
“The Court’s opinion makes no secret of the fact that it is trying to change decades of established law in Oregon,” Harnish said in a statement Thursday. “We think that is wrong, and we hope that the Oregon Court of Appeals and Supreme Court will respect local governments and the long-recognized property rights of Oregonians.”
The city didn’t immediately return OPB’s request for comment.
Attorneys for the city argued the parks along the lake provided the public with “visual access to the lake.” The city said in its legal briefs that it was “objectively reasonable” to prohibit physical entry into the lake because the city designed the parks for “events and gathering spaces.”
Access to Oswego Lake is limited to Lake Oswego residents. There’s a city-owned swim park for residents. All other access is restricted to members of the Lake Oswego Corporation, a nonprofit made up of the roughly 3,500 homeowners who live around and near the lake.
Conrad Wilson / OPB
Since the case was first filed, it has wound through the courts and broken into two key questions. The first looked at whether the water was subject to the state public trust doctrine. In 2022, a judge ruled Oswego Lake was, meaning the public must have access.
This second looked at whether the city’s restrictions “unreasonably interferes with the public’s right to enter the lake.” As Steele’s opinion makes clear, they do.
“The City needs the opportunity or chance to fix the public access,” Steele wrote. “Clearly, the City may not violate the public trust doctrine and shall correct the violation. The Court has the authority, based on the evidence and jury verdict, to tell the City to take down the ‘No Access’ sign and remove the restrictions.”
For this and other local news, please visit OPB.com
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The rain drums against the roof, the wind yanks the last damp leaves from the trees—and all the snuggies in the world can’t seem to insulate you from winter creep reaching deep into your bones. It’s time to soak out the chill—and revive your spirits—at one of the Pacific Northwest’s beautiful natural hot springs. We’ve got your guide right here, whether you’re looking for a quick half-day trip or a DIY mineral treatment much farther afield.
Soak-on-the-go? From Portland, these two hot springs are one or two hours by car.
Bagby Hot Springs Take your time on the easy 1.5-mile hike in to Bagby, which feels shockingly lush even for native Northwesterners who grew up drinking in the greenest of hues. The three partially covered bathhouses, which house hand-hewn tubs fed by cedar plumbing, sit at the mouth of two underground springs that gush about 25 gallons of 136-degree mineral water every minute. Exhibitionists rejoice! Clothing is optional on the bath decks.
Breitenbush Hot Springs These hot springs double as a retreat for those who could use a more focused vacation from the city. The Breitenbush Retreat and Conference Center offers community events that center on mental and physical wellness, such as yoga and meditation workshops. Reservations at their year-round cabins include three hearty vegetarian meals per day and the best sleep of your life.
Pack an overnight bag for these mini getaway spots: each three to four hours from Portland.
Cougar Hot Springs’ terraced (and totes clothing optional) pools.
Cougar Hot Springs Also known as the Terwilliger Hot Springs, these five pools have a temperature for everybody. Each rock-walled pool feeds into another below it to create a descending gradient of heat: at the top, a scalding 112 degrees; the bottom, a comfortable 90 degrees. Play Goldilocks and dip your toe into each bowled terrace to find that one that’s “just right.” (For a weekend trip, stay nearby at the McKenzie River Mountain Resort.)
Newberry Caldera Hot Springs Newberry is classified as an active volcano, which means that it’s not a question of if, but when it will erupt again. Don’t let that deter you from exploring its caldera, though. The Newberry National Volcanic Monument features two lakes, Paulina and East, both of which have blissfully hot springs on their banks. Be warned that these springs are for the slightly more adventurous set—you may have to dig out your own soaking tub, and the sulfuric smell is not for the faint of heart.
Hot Lake Springs After a 1934 fire that destroyed the original building near La Grande, Hot Lake Springs Resort lay mostly in ruin for seven decades, during which it changed hands many times. Today, the beautifully restored bed-and-breakfast complex houses not only the springs but also an art gallery and coffee shop. (Along with the mineral springs, make sure to soak up a little of the Oregon Trail at their history center while you’re there.)
Take a few sick days (we promise you’ll feel better) and head to these far-flung springs, five to seven hours away.
Hot springs—plus full-on grand lodge amenities like a poolside deli and massages—at this resort deep in the Olympics.
Sol Duc Hot Springs Resort
The breathtaking three-pronged Sol Duc Falls alone are well worth the trip up to the northern edge of Washington’s Olympic Peninsula. One option: book a rugged three-day trek on the High Divide Loop trail (including the best view of Mount Olympus) with stay at the resort, where you can regenerate with four onsite soaking pool options. (Temperatures range from 104 degrees to a brisk 50 degrees in the freshwater pool.) A less-intensive way to get your fix of nature? Try a year-round guided trek of the Lake Quinault Rainforest. Want even more? Lodge-hop the whole peninsula.
A range of overnight accommodations—from teepees to campsites to waterfront cabins—provide easy access to these high desert springs.
Crystal Crane Hot Springs Options abound at Crystal Crane, an “informal” resort tucked in Oregon’s far southeastern corner not far from Steens Mountain. Prepared to rough it in a tent? There’s a campsite. Prefer the luxury of an inn? They have two. Open pond or cozy private tub? Your pick, but insiders recommend an early morning dip in the 102-degree outdoor pool while listening to the distant howls of coyotes as you watch the sun rise.
Alvord Hot Springs
The lure remains at these once-free springs that have turned commercial. Near the eastern base of Steen Mountain, these isolated dipping pools may now feature a parking lot and bathrooms, but nothing can diminish the view of the full moon hanging low over the desert.
For this and other local articles, please visit PortlandMonthly
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As the romance genre continues to bloom, love-devoted Grand Gesture Books welcomes Portland readers
The exterior of Grand Gesture Books on Oct. 26, 2024, in Portland, Ore. Grand Gesture is Oregon’s first romance-only bookstore.
Sukhjot Sal / OPB
More than 400 people made their way to downtown Portland on Saturday to celebrate the opening of Grand Gesture Books, the state’s very first romance-only bookstore.
“Isn’t love grand?” the lettering on the store’s exterior window asks. Walking inside, you’ll see the answer is, of course, “Yes.” Muted pink walls, a rosy rug, delicate vases of blooming flowers and velvety armchairs surround dark brown bookshelves filled to the brim with every romance reader’s dream: a wide variety of subgenres to please even the pickiest of customers.
Katherine Morgan, pictured in this undated handout image, is the owner of Grand Gesture Books in Portland, Ore.
Courtesy of Spencer Pond
Katherine Morgan, romance enthusiast and owner of Grand Gesture, hopes the bookstore will offer a plethora of books about love, provide a space for book clubs to meet and host romance authors on book tours. It’s also one of just a handful of Black-owned romance bookstores in the nation.
At the store’s grand opening, Morgan estimates at least $15,000 worth of books were sold, with the line extending out the door and around an entire block. The store remained packed until 10 minutes before closing.
“Within five minutes, the whole store was full,” Morgan said. “… It was a lot, but it was wonderful.”
The local author section was particularly interesting to customer Kate Szorm. Currently, she’s reading the third installment of “The Murderbot Diaries” by Martha Wells, which chronicles the story of a cyborg searching for the meaning of life. Now, Szorm wants to branch out and try reading a sci-fi romance novel.
“The line to check out is super long and everybody’s just chatting, so the vibe is great,” Szorm said.
People line up to checkout romance novels at Grand Gesture Books at its grand opening on Oct. 26, 2024 in Portland, Ore. Grand Gesture is Oregon’s first romance-only bookstore.
Sukhjot Sal / OPB
Filling a long-empty space in Oregon’s romance literature community, Grand Gesture boasts books focused on love with all kinds of central themes: LGBTQ+, mystery, paranormal, erotica, contemporary, historical, fantasy, nonfiction, self-love, platonic love and Pacific Northwest authors.
“It’s the one genre where you know for sure how it’s going to end, and that’s one of the things people like to make fun of,” Morgan said. “But it’s like no, how it ends doesn’t matter. It’s what happens on that journey. You want to root for these people.”
Growing up a lonely child in an environment with frequent abuse, Morgan said she discovered reading as a means to escape into a wonderful world separate from her own. She fell out of reading but came back into the romance genre with full force with “The Wedding Date” by Jasmine Guillory in 2019 when she was managing the romance section at Powell’s.
“Something about it just makes me swoon and realize how I want to be loved as a person, and how I want to love people in my life, whether it’s platonic in a friend group or romantic with my partner,” Morgan said.
Grand Gesture Books’ nonfiction section features novels on self-love, platonic love and other types of love on Oct. 26, 2024 in Portland, Ore. Grand Gesture is Oregon’s first romance-only bookstore.
Sukhjot Sal / OPB
Romance bookstores are still something of a novelty though. In 2016, there was only one dedicated romance bookstore in the United States — The Ripped Bodice in Los Angeles.
But love for the love genre has grown quickly over the past eight years, corresponding to the opening of more than 20 romance bookstores in the nation. Until now, the closest romance bookstore for Oregonians was The Romance Era, a queer and Black-owned used romance bookshop in Vancouver, Washington, opened by Ren Rice in 2023, who has been a big supporter of Grand Gesture’s opening in Portland.
“Grand Gesture is the hard work of someone who really loves what they do,” Rice told OPB in an email. “I am excited that Katherine is able to bring all the knowledge and skill she has to provide books and titles to everyone in the PDX community. I love that she has her own spin on the bookstore and between us we have a great deal of coverage, something for everyone!”
The interior of The Romance Era bookshop in Vancouver, Wash. in this undated handout image.
Courtesy of Ren Rice
Romance sales have soared in recent years, from 18 million copies sold in 2020 to more than 39 million in 2023, The New York Times reported. Some point to readers’ desire to escape from certain circumstances, like the pandemic or increasingly stressful politics, while others say younger generations, through spaces like BookTok, are embracing the formerly stigmatized genre with open arms and less shame.
The romance genre has not just boomed nationally or only in sales — Portland metro area libraries have also observed the increase. The Multnomah County Library organization, which manages more than 20 libraries across Portland, has observed a doubling in the number of romance checkouts in e-books and audiobooks since 2018.
Washington County Cooperative Library Services, which is a partnership between Washington County, nine cities and three nonprofit organizations that operate local libraries, also noticed a skyrocketing increase in romance novels post-pandemic.
WCCLS saw the number of physical romance novel checkouts increase by nearly 30% from 2017-18 to 2023-24. In the same time frame, romance audio checkouts increased by around 16% while romance e-book checkouts grew by around 40%.
“I think there’s a parallel to a rise in the popularity of (cozy) mysteries — as the real world becomes more fraught with uncertainty and things beyond our control, it seems only natural to turn to reading that will have a full and satisfactory conclusion: all conflicts are resolved, the couple lives happily ever after (or happily for now), the murderer is caught,” said Rian Debner, WCCLS library systems and collections supervisor, in an email.
Courtney Sheedy, an e-content librarian with WCCLS, noted that romance sub- and micro-genres have grown massively as previously niche areas of interest have become mainstream, and self-published authors used social media to gain an engaged audience.
“The genre as a whole has also expanded in its inclusivity with regards to body size, gender expression, sexual orientation, non-monogamy, and beyond,” Sheedy said.
People browse the shelves at Grand Gesture Books on opening day, Oct. 26, 2024, in Portland, Ore. Grand Gesture is Oregon’s first romance-only bookstore.
Sukhjot Sal / OPB
For Chris Walters, a Portland author who writes cozy contemporary romance and urban fantasy/paranormal romance, Grand Gesture is a chance to help boost the genre locally by attracting more authors to this city, from bestsellers to small-press and indie authors.
“I feel like romance has this weird reputation as perhaps not real writing or only for women, and Grand Gesture can hopefully help break some of those stereotypes,” he told OPB via Instagram. “Romance is for everyone, and I believe Katherine is going to help spread the word about how incredible romance books can be.”
Inclusivity is definitely at the heart of Grand Gesture. That’s why, in addition to housing BookTok’s most popular romances, Morgan is focusing on highlighting underrepresented love stories — from a Sapphic Black romance to a multiracial zombie love story — you name it, she’s got it (or something similar).
Happily ever after
And Grand Gesture doesn’t just house books. Morgan knows her target audience too well.
Grand Gesture Books provides a seating area for readers in front of a painted wall that reads, “Find love in Portland,” on Oct. 26, 2024 in Portland, Ore. Grand Gesture is Oregon’s first romance-only bookstore.
Sukhjot Sal / OPB
“Romance girlies love three things,” she said. “They love books — and they get more than one book, they’re not just buying one — they get tote bags, and they get stickers.” The bookstore has all three things, she promises, as well as t-shirts and literary-themed candles.
On top of all that, Morgan — who is an ordained minister — would love nothing more than to host weddings at Grand Gesture. Or at least have it be a couple’s meet-cute (definition: where two love interests meet for the first time).
“I am very open and honest about the fact that my whole personality is wanting people to get married in my store, or engaged in my store, or first dates, I want that to happen,” Morgan said.
Grand Gesture is located at 814 Southwest 10th Avenue in Portland. Morgan will be tabling at the Portland Book Festival on Nov. 2.
Go-to romance recs from the two PNW bookstore owners:
Morgan’s recommendations:
“Before I Let Go” by Kennedy Ryan
“The Undertaking of Hart and Mercy” by Megan Bannen
Rice’s recommendations:
The Brown Sisters trilogy by Talia Hibbert
The Raven Cycle series by Maggie Stiefvater
For this and other local news, please visit OPB.com
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Save the adrenaline fiends and modern explorers using their PTO for backcountry expeditions, most of us hope to spend our vacation time, you know, relaxing. And when trying to wick away stress, it helps to sweat it out. Scattered across Oregon and Washington, contrast therapy evangelists have set up floating saunas over serene lakes and parked wood-burning trailers near mountain rivers, so sweaty visitors can cool off in the chilly waters of the Pacific Northwest. And while several hotels and resorts will stick a basic electric sauna near the hot tub or spa, a few spots have invested in truly spectacular soaking or shvitzing setups, from cabins hidden in the wilderness to huts hazy with hot spring steam. Below, find an array of destination-worthy saunas and steam rooms—some found within inns and lodges, others open to outside guests hoping for an out-of-town sweat session. For something closer to home, our local sauna guide may help.
Washington County | Price: Included with stay; reservations start at $200 per night | Swimsuit? Yes, required
The electric sauna behind this three-bedroom Willamette Valley B&B is as close as a person can get to shvitzing in a wine barrel. Nico and Mia Ponzi Hamacher transformed their mother’s childhood home, situated next to Ponzi Vineyards’ original plantings, into an intimate inn surrounded by grapevines and gardens. While in college in Canada, Nico would sneak out to the barrel sauna hidden in the woods near his campus. In honor of his old hangout, he and a group of family and friends constructed Sosta House’s fir sauna using materials from Sanctuary Barrel Saunas. The cold plunge, built into the cedar deck, stays on theme, made from a converted fermenting tank the siblings found behind the winery. Out the sauna window, guests gaze onto cresting waves of grapevines, a nearby trickling creek, and towering conifers that loom over the property. Chickens coo and cackle from a pen nearby. Like many of the amenities at Sosta House, the sauna is self-serve and free for guests to use at any time during their stay. —Brooke Jackson-Glidden
Gather founder Halina Kowalski-Thompson stands next to her original sauna trailer, built by her business partner and husband, Dorian Thompson.
Central Oregon | Price: Starts at $36 for a 75-minute session | Swimsuit? Yes
Trauma therapist Halina Kowalski-Thompson is a fervent proponent of contrast therapy as a tool for physical and mental healing. It’s what inspired her to open her Central Oregon sauna business with her husband, Dorian Thompson, who built Gather’s first mobile, wood-burning sauna out of a converted horse trailer. Gather parks its saunas alongside natural bodies of water—the Deschutes River, primarily—to host communal and private sauna events, punctuated by icy dips. Halina leads sessions incorporating elements of the Latvian pirts, a thermal bathing tradition that uses medicinal plants in the form of teas and aromatherapy. At Gather, Halina wields herbal whisks she makes herself, brushing them against the skin or using them to fan steam throughout the room. The couple harvests and forages botanicals throughout the region for their own oils, salves, and tinctures, which serve as complements. Coming soon: a full-on sauna center in Tumalo, with an herbal garden for build-your-own whisks. —BJG
The stunningly designed ofuro—or bathhouse—at Snow Peak’s Campfield in Long Beach, Washington.
Long Beach, Washington | Price: Free for overnight guests; day passes start at $35 for a 90-minute session | Swimsuit? Yes, required
In the warmer months of 2024, revered Japanese outdoor brand Snow Peak opened its first American “Campfield”—part ritzy campground, part consumer testing ground for its gear—on Washington’s Long Beach Peninsula. Families build fires in Snow Peak–branded stainless-steel fireplaces and roll sleeping bags onto Snow Peak–branded high-tension cots within Snow Peak–branded tents. Beyond the cushy camp gear and scenic wetlands, a main draw of the campground is its ofuro, a Japanese-style bathhouse with an accompanying cold plunge and sauna. The electric sauna is lined with temple-grade hinoki cypress, with a window looking out at the spa’s verdant grounds. The circulating cold plunge—kept between 45 and 50 degrees Fahrenheit—is steps away, as is the 105-degree soaking pool, with a view of surrounding alder trees. Note that Snow Peak Campfield is a family-friendly spot, so don’t be surprised by the chatty 8-year-old joining you on the bench (adults-only slots are available after 7pm each day and before 11am). —BJG
Breitenbush skips the typical electric or wood-burning heat, using the natural hot spring to steam up its sauna.
Idanha, Oregon | Price: $35 day pass; overnight stays start at $112 | Swimsuit? Optional
Clothing optional, completely off the grid, and free of cell service and Wi-Fi, Breitenbush Hot Springs is the stuff of Oregon legend. The 153-acre resort, nestled into the Willamette National Forest east of Salem, is the Pacific Northwest’s largest privately owned geothermal springs site and has spent the better part of a century as a wilderness health spa; well before it came into private hands, Indigenous tribes gathered here to soak, trade, and feast. A worker-owned cooperative since the late ’70s, Breitenbush today feels part summer camp, part storybook getaway: think communal meals and song circles amid idyllic wooded surrounds. (While the Labor Day fires of 2020 took out historic buildings and left behind burn scars, they couldn’t extinguish the spirit of the place.) The soaking pools, some lined with river rocks and tucked into a meadow with mountain views, steal much of the attention, but consider the sauna a sleeper star. Housed in a sweet cedar hut, it sits atop a capped geyser that would, according to the resort, shoot 30 feet into the air on a regular basis were it not sealed. Hobbit-sized doors grant entry to the dim space, which fills with steam that rises from slats in the floor. When full, it can be a sloppy sea of sweaty bodies, sighing and stretching and sometimes singing. After you’ve maxed out, a sunbathing deck and cold plunge tub await, with icy water piped from a glacier-fed river. —Rebecca Jacobson
Minam River Lodge’s secluded hot tub and sauna—not to mention the lodge itself—are only accessible via a lengthy hike or chartered plane.
Eagle Cap Wilderness, Oregon | Price: Included with lodge stay; accommodations start at $350 per night, with a minimum three-night stay | Swimsuit? No formal policy, but visitors typically use swimsuits
It doesn’t get much more isolated than this: a hotel deep in Northeastern Oregon’s Eagle Cap Wilderness, accessible only by chartered small-plane flight or an 8.5-mile trail. The cabin-like sauna hides between trees and overlooks the Minam River, whose chilly waters serve as a cold plunge. Lodge staff light the sauna fire at 7am daily, warming cedar benches and paneling. Deeper in the forest, a spring-fed, wood-fired hot tub simmers, lodge staff tending to its flame throughout the day. With only a handful of cabins, lodge rooms, and canvas-wall tents, there are never more than a few dozen guests at the remote hotel; meals draw from the gardens and greenhouse on site. Fishing excursions, horseback rides, or massages in the historic barn disperse visitors, creating a luxurious sense of solitude. The only other trace of civilization is Red’s Horse Ranch and its historic cabins, a half-mile upriver; there, US Forest Service volunteers share stories of how the property once hosted guests as varied as Burt Lancaster and Supreme Court Justice William O. Douglas. —Allison Williams
The Society Hotel Bingen’s spa is home to a variety of soaking pools, as well as a spacious sauna and cold plunge.
Bingen, Washington | Price: Free for overnight guests; drop-in visits start at $30 for a one-hour session | Swimsuit? Yes, required|
A sibling of the Society in Old Town, this hostel-hotel hybrid occupies a former school in the Columbia River Gorge, with some of the original features intact (yes, you can play basketball in the gym or gossip on the bleachers). A ring of Scandinavian-vibed cabins surround a shared bathhouse, which follows a similar model to Knot Springs: visitors can work their way through a tepid saltwater soaking pool, a super toasty outdoor soaking pool, a chilly 54 degree cold plunge, and a cedar sauna. Those interested can add a few spa services to their visit, including facials, brow waxes, and exfoliating lip treatments. —BJG
Von Sauna’s lakeside locale offers an obvious natural cold plunge post-shvitz.
Kirkland, Washington | Price: $40 per person for a 75-minute session | Swimsuit? Yes, required
In the mornings, Lake Washington at Kirkland’s Carillon Point is so still the water could be mistaken for glass, the illusion shattered only when sweat-soaked visitors plunge into its depths. The seasonal Von Sauna made its debut in Washington in January 2024, one of the state’s first public floating saunas according to owner David Jones. The DC native decided to bring the floating sauna experience to his adopted home after multiple trips to Norway. Guests choose between a private sauna or a 75-minute communal session, booking one of 12 seats in an allotted time slot. The wood-fired sauna, which sits between 170 and 195 degrees Fahrenheit, juts out over the water on a small dock, with two floor-to-ceiling windows for maximum lake views. —Abby Luschei
For this and other local articles, please visit PortlandMonthly
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It’s winter! And there are all kinds of ways to enjoy the snow up in the mountains, but snowshoeing is one of the simplest.
“Snowshoeing is the most peaceful thing that you can do,” says Norther Emily of Wild Solitude Guiding. ”It’s just like you and your little crunchy sounds, and maybe there’s like three birds.”
Emily has offered up a list of the best snowshoeing trails for every level — if you’re ready to try it out for the first time or you’re looking for a new challenge.
It’s a relatively flat trail but incredibly scenic — “one of the most heavily photographed destinations on Mount Hood,” says Emily. “You have a beautiful view of the mountain if the mountain is out. If the mountain is not out, you still have a beautiful lake, and then you just do a little loop around the lake.”’
Plus, accessing it when there’s snow isn’t difficult because it’s right off a highway that’s maintained by ODOT in the winter.
“It’s really chill and flat,” says Emily. You can also make it a longer adventure. “You can go for a long ways up there, and there’s a lot to explore [including] some neat little pine forests on the edge of the river.”
Snowshoeing up to Mirror Lake is pretty easy, but you can add on a challenge. “If you want to make it hard, you can keep going up the hill to the top of this mountain,” says Emily. “That’s a little bit more of an adventurous push, and there’s definitely more elevation gain with that.”
It’s “a little trickier,” says Emily. “You have to know how to drive in snow. You have to know how to read maps and figure things out. [But] you can hike up into all kinds of areas that people don’t usually visit in the winter and explore around and see what it’s like.”
“Did you know you can go snowshoeing in Multnomah County?” says Emily. “You don’t even have to go to Mt. Hood. Larch Mountain is right there in the Gorge. You drive through Corbett; you go up the hill until you hit the gate or you hit snow. Then you can snowshoe around in the Gorge high country, which is really cool.”
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Cascadia has timbered villas and chalets aplenty. But what exactly makes a grand lodge? It should breathe an air of epic romance, a place where quotidian worries succumb to wild beauty and creature comforts. These 10 retreats invoke the mythic best of the Northwest. And each has its perfect season.
Winter
Clockwise from top: Looking down at Timberline’s 400-ton fireplace; a bluebird day on the slopes; the lodge’s newly renovated pool.
Timberline Lodge Is a Bastion of American Gumption
Timberline Lodge’s multistory stone hearth—an immense, hexagonal furnace weighing 800,000 pounds—would be at home on the History Channel’s Modern Marvels, along with the rest of this mammoth Mount Hood snow fortress. Dedicated in 1937, Portland’s nearest (dearest?) mountain lodge screams old-fashioned Oregon ingenuity. The Depression-era Works Progress Administration funded its local teams of weavers (who hand-loomed the curtains), artists (who lined its glass mosaics), and carpenters (who hewed beams big enough to hoist sails on the HMS Victory).
All to say that staying at Timberline is like bunking in a super-cozy history museum. But Timberline’s two million annual visitors also know that Hood’s only ski-in, ski-out resort is built 6,000 feet up a mountain with one of the longest seasons in the country—and that when it’s raining at Ski Bowl or Meadows, it’s still snowing on Timberline’s 41 varied runs.
The price of sleeping in this creaky castle is also steep: Room prices start around $240 and can run a good deal more than that, plus the cost of lift tickets. Vittles, too, will cost you—expect $30–60 entrées for a Cordon Bleu test-kitchen-level dinner in the Cascade Dining Room. (Timberline’s semisecret, closet-size, winter-only Blue Ox Bar serves topping-heavy pizza at a lower price point; also watch for the seasonal Phlox Point Cabin, known for its midmountain street tacos, to open when ski season hits.)
Still, there’s nothing quite like escaping a high-alpine storm through Timberline’s snow tunnel, then opening those heavy, mosaic-fitted doors to greet a toasty fire. And waking up to Hood’s south face beaming through your window? Timeless. —Benjamin Tepler
Government Camp, OR | winter rates $240–455
Sun Valley Resort is built into the eastern slopes of Idaho’s Sawtooth Range.
Sun Valley Resort Is a Mini Ski City for the Stars
Imagine a lodge where silver screen star Tyrone Power rubbed elbows with Henry Ford and Hemingway; where Janet Leigh (and, later, daughter Jamie Lee Curtis) skied while presidents and jazzmen sipped whiskey in leather armchairs snugged up to well-stoked hearths.
Such a gratuitously star-struck lodge exists: Sun Valley Resort, built into the eastern slopes of Idaho’s Sawtooth Range. And all that glamorous legend-making? Hand-spun, one zealously courted celebrity at a time, by New York publicists. The story of Sun Valley has always been a study in power plays (and powder playing), starting in 1936, when W. Averell Harriman, heir to Union Pacific Railroad millions, built what he marketed as America’s first destination ski resort.
Nearly 90 years later, the once sorta-rustic lodge has swelled into an opulent, mahogany-paneled luxury complex with facilities capable of training Winter Olympians. Sun Valley is, in fact, its own city, with a dedicated zip code, workforce housing, and a “village” of eateries and tchotchke shops winding just beyond the main lodge parking lot. In 2015, the property’s current owners—the Holding family, heirs to Sinclair Oil millions—financed a massive update of the main lodge: vaster guest rooms, an expanded spa, a snazzier basement bowling alley. Also? Five new “celebrity suites,” each a themed tribute to a Sun Valley heavyweight who helped burnish the legend. (Hello, Papa.) —Ramona DeNies
Sun Valley, Id | winter rates $294–3,000+
Spring
Clockwise from left: The Boathouse restaurant and marina; Suttle Lake; Suttle Lodge in full winter mode.
Loose Trivial Pursuit cards in plastic bags. Ouija boards. DVDs like Encino Man and Cabin Fever. At Suttle Lodge, 37 miles northwest of Bend near Santiam Pass, the entertainments are quirky and well worn.
It’s as if distractible Portland hipsters and the editors of Bon Appétit dreamt up a mountain retreat and brought it to life, complete with a Pinterest-ready Pendleton woolen throw on every bed, a Traeger grill by every cabin. On the menu of the warm-season Boathouse restaurant, a deliberately prismatic plate of crunchy veggies cuddles up with griddled hot dogs. Other details—say, that dog-eared Gil Scott-Heron record—could well be thrift store finds from nearby Sisters.
There’s both charm and occasional frustration here—a laid-back log palace where execution can feel like a run of incomplete sentences. Luckily for the lodge—which reopened in 2016 with new owners affiliated with the Ace Hotel Portland and bars Pépé le Moko (RIP) and Spirit of ’77—no one’s going to quibble with the setting. From Suttle’s generous deck, lawn games scatter across soft grass toward a beer garden and pastoral dock. Beyond that: calm Suttle Lake and the fragrant conifers of the trail-laced Deschutes National Forest. And within an hour’s drive, guests can access some of the state’s dreamiest hot springs: Belknap, Breitenbush, and Cougar.
Suttle boasts year-round natural thrills—snowshoeing to canoeing—as well as mellower draws, such as lawn concerts, creekside yoga, and wine tastings on the deck. For urbane Portlanders, this is where to rough it, without roughing it at all. —RD
Sisters, Or | spring rates for lodge rooms $125–367, rustic cabins from $85, premium/deluxe cabins from $295
Perched above Snoqualmie Falls and familiar from pancake-mix packages and the dreamy intro to the ’90s TV series Twin Peaks, 108-year-old Salish Lodge & Spa was once a simple, woodsy traveler’s rest. In 2017, the already slicked-up spot, now nearly absorbed by the Seattle metro area, got even more luxe with a “contemporary mountainside concept” renovation, including updated bathrooms and a new VIP lounge.
But it’s still all about the waterfall (pictured at top). While forking through predictable but pleasing Northwest fare (grilled salmon, sautéed wild mushrooms), eaters in the dining room or Attic restaurant can look out over the fantastical drop of the 268-foot falls, drama heightened by a deep wine list packed with Northwest AVAs. (A few guest rooms also offer Snoqualmie Falls glimpses.)
Note: The lodge is wedged between river and roadway. On summer weekends, that means traffic jams to viewpoints and competition for access to the Salish’s crisp, slate-floored spa from Seattle day-trippers on their way back from Mount Si. Visit, instead, in mistier months, when the spa’s soaking tubs (and area hiking trails and golf courses) are less crowded—and when that in-room fireplace extends a welcome worthy of Twin Peaks’ fictional Great Northern Hotel. (A gin-and-cardamom Dale Cooper cocktail helps, too.) —Margaret Seiler
Snoqualmie, WA | spring rates $408–1,288
Come spring, wildflowers abound at Sun Mountain Lodge.
In Washington’s North Cascades between Winthrop and Twisp, Sun Mountain Lodge commands 360-degree views of the Methow River Valley. At 3,000 feet on an isolated crest, the perch has a king-of-the-world feeling, this fiefdom fully traversable by a trail system that extends well beyond the resort’s 3,400 acres.
In winter, that means groomed Nordic track; fall and summer are hiking, riding, and mountain biking. But come spring, as sunflowers blanket the valley, the lure is fly-fishing: steelhead and smallmouth bass.
Bearing witness to the circle of life is Sun Mountain’s astounding (confounding? distressing?) taxidermy collection. Hunting trophies—a bequest from a fan—throng the lodge, from the bison staring down guests at reception to the Gould’s turkeys, javelinas, and musk ox marching down the main arcade. In one cozy sitting room, four sheep heads flank a TV. In the wine cellar (home to 3,500 bottles stacked floor-to-ceiling), a polar bear looms over private diners.
Yes, Sun Mountain Lodge isn’t exactly a Left Coast oasis. It is, however, a place where local wild game might appear on a fine dining menu. That vast, America-centric wine list spans everything from a $460 Columbia Valley cab to $27 organic bottles from Chile. And unlike older lodges—built back when bunkrooms and shared bathrooms were endured by the well-heeled—this 56-year-old chalet (renovated in 1990) offers guests seriously private amenities: in-room fireplaces, whirlpool tubs, wet bars. For those seeking refuge from Portland preciousness, behold your Big Game Hunter Brigadoon. —RD
Winthrop, Wa | spring rates from $229–492
Summer
Clockwise from top left: Takeoff; Minam’s wood-fired hot tub; garden zucchini; a horse hitch and cabin.
On warm summer days, Barnes Ellis—a former reporter turned investment adviser and owner of the Minam River Lodge in Eastern Oregon’s Eagle Cap Wilderness—has been known to hop into his Kodiak 100 for wine-related emergency flights to Walla Walla. The party he’s refueling could be a wedding, or a lamb roast with guest chef Philippe Boulot. Possibly the lodge ran out of Syrah after a raucous weekend with winemakers from Elk Cove or Walter Scott. Or maybe guests just got extra thirsty on the hike in—nearly nine verdant miles by foot or horseback. The only other entry to this retreat? Private aircraft, landed on a backcountry strip so rugged it can bounce a plane right into its bordering, nationally designated “Wild and Scenic” river. (Not something that intimidates readers of Pilot Getaways magazine, which put Minam on a 2017 cover; the following season, Condé Nast Traveler named it one of world’s top new hotels.)
Minam’s inaccessibility is part of the charm; here, amenities shine with extra luster. The lodge—a neglected hunter’s retreat—took a tight crew of craftspeople six years (and a fortune in helicopter transport) to rebuild. Furniture was milled and hand-built on-site. The now-cushy main lodge is efficiently warmed by one central fireplace; down a trail, a wood-fired hot tub is tucked near Minam’s more affordable wall tents. Hikes run in all directions. (Consult the lodge’s own guidebook, penned by Pacific Northwest trail junkie Douglas Lorain.) From cabin porches, night skies rain starlight over the snow-dusted Wallowas: isolated splendor that comes with Terminal Gravity on tap and waterfall showers. —RD
Cove, Or | summer rates $350–795
Paradise Lodge was built in 1916 just below Mount Rainier’s treeline.
There’s a lending library tucked into a corner of Paradise Inn’s wraparound mezzanine; its worn titles include a Rock Hudson memoir and what must be the world’s entire catalog of Christmas-themed bodice rippers. Paradise isn’t open in winter—the lodge, built in 1916 just below Mount Rainier’s treeline, is snowbound half of the year. But there’s a crisp chill here even at the height of summer, when tricked-out summiteers and Chinese tour buses clog the parking lots, and the lodge’s yellow cedar–studded bunk rooms are booked solid.
That draft won’t reach the balcony, where guests hole up with schlocky books and complimentary tea and cookies. Below, two roaring fireplaces bookend the great hall; between them, most afternoons, a resident pianist (“Bill from Florida,” says the manager) plies the very same ivories tickled by Harry Truman back in 1945.
These comforts aside, Paradise can be, to borrow the manager’s phrase, an austere experience. There’s no pool, fitness center, or spa. And, famously, no Wi-Fi. In the original lodge, only the ADA-accessible ground-floor quarters have private bathrooms—though guests in the lodge’s renovated 79-room annex also enjoy this luxury. The restaurant fare is about what you’d expect for a private concern hawkishly watched by the National Park Service: bland, bulk-sourced, and cooked by kids who’d rather be mountain-climbing.
No, the romance of Paradise stems from the weather god outside: Mount Rainier towering in mist and snow. But that pink in your cheeks lingers indoors, with warm hearths, boozy “campfire cups,” and a good book. (Steamy, of course.) —RD
Ashford, WA | summer rates $228–441
Fall
Clockwise from left: Tu Tu’ Tun Lodge; wildflowers on a Carlton Farms pork chop; the lodge and Rogue River in the gloaming.
At the Tu Tu’ Tun Lodge, cedar cladding and an Arts and Crafts framework tell guests they’re in NorCal-adjacent Southern Oregon. Yet what with the rushing Rogue River, on-site fishing licenses for sale, and talk of the day’s catch, this feels like Norman Maclean country.
Folded into an evergreen hillside off coastal US 101 eight miles east of Gold Beach, this former locals’ river retreat isn’t a place you just stumble upon. Someone must have told you about it, and those who stay here have the satisfied sense of being in on a secret. Pronounced a bit like “high-falutin’,” the Tu Tu’ Tun does attract well-heeled Bay Area ex-bohemians and moneyed Seattleites. (It survived the decline of Oregon’s fishing and logging industries by pivoting, in the 1990s, into a higher-end retreat.) But you’ll also find Canadian retirees here, and the occasional schoolteacher-turned-cowgirl back for a return visit.
Comprising a small lodge building, a guest wing, and three rentable houses, the Tu Tu’ Tun puts on no airs. It pampers, instead, with friendliness and familiarity. Staff greet guests by name, offering a jacket for jet boat rides, visits to the Adirondack chairs on the gently sloping lawn, or a turn on the bocce court, four-hole pitch and putt, or horseshoe pit. There are luxurious touches here: a lap pool, a seasonal spa tent, and river views for each cozy room, some with wood-burning fireplaces and private patio soaking tubs. An add-on dinner might include orchard apples—if the resident black-tailed deer haven’t munched them all—or a corn-and-pea succotash popping with cherry tomatoes from the flower-ringed kitchen garden, halibut or poached rockfish, salads with coastal Face Rock cheese, and the lodge’s “famous” piping-hot popovers. But the Tu Tu’ Tun’s personality is more literary fly-fisher than sybaritic shut-in. Take the surprising number of Glimmer Train issues on the bookshelf, or the fleet of kayaks and stand-up paddleboards for guest use—one of Tu Tu’ Tun’s many reminders, along with the framed fish art and folks in waders, that a river runs through it. —MS
Gold Beach, OR | fall rooms $300–1,375
From left: Skamania Lodge’s river-facing Adirondack chairs; the lodge’s skylit saline pool.
Like an airport thriller you can’t stop reading, Skamania Lodge is a warm bath for tired minds. Popular with Christian groups, military reunions, and tech confabs, the sprawling complex—just 45 miles east of Portland in the Columbia River Gorge—evokes a corporate Breitenbush, rolling out basics without a drop of hipness. But in its serene blandness, Skamania comforts and still surprises.
Here, things stay interesting while evoking family-vacation vibes, from zip lines to lodge-chartered rafting and painting classes. At one end of the 254-room lodge, toddlers splash in the fitness center’s saline pool. Steps away, wholesome teenagers energetically make out in the hot tub. Out-of-state 50-somethings discreetly inquire about recreational pot. Hikers on Skamania’s trails are warned to watch for the area’s swift and heartless aerial predators: stray golf balls launched from its adjacent golf course.
Built in the early 1990s as a lodge-themed event space, Skamania is about as transportive as a suburban mall, with Sting on the sound system and food that evokes Costco home cooking at fine-dining prices. Yet there are good reasons to visit. The setting, for one—a forest-ringed parkland with 270-degree views of Gorge beauty. Also, there’s just too much to do, from monkeying around the aerial park (a stealth workout) to serious spa exfoliation. Amid the whir of golf carts, find unexpected catharsis from work and life in the lodge’s ax-throwing cage. Come dusk, roast s’mores (gear provided) by the firepit before retiring to your guest room (or one of the lodge’s four stilt houses in the trees). Like that airport page-turner, a stay here is a predictable, rock-solid win. —Amy Martin
Stevenson, WA | fall rooms $189–737
Stay overnight at the Allison Inn & Spa for access to the infinity-edge pool.
Champagne-oil massages, grape-seed moisturizers, and “pinot pedicures” remind Allison guests they’re in wine country. Consider lingering overnight after that facial to get access to the guests-only, infinity-edge pool.
Newberg, OR | treatments from $25 (lip, chin, or cheek wax) to $310 (couples massage in the “Zen Den Garden”) | rooms from $525
Skin resurfacing and microneedling. Swedish effleurage. A treatment all about oxygen. Some Willows services read like medical-grade sandblasting. Others just …hug you.
Woodinville, Wa | treatments from $25 (lip or brow wax) to $400 (in-room couples massage) | rooms from $290
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Goodbye, plant beds and street view. Hello, woodlands.
Why wait for other people to solve the climate crisis when you can create wee woodlands right in your own yard? Enter the tiny forest movement, which took root in Japan a couple of decades ago and is now jumping the pond to Oregon.
Just ask Andrew Millison, who grows 30 trees and native berry bushes in his tiny forest. His one-third-acre corner lot in suburban Corvallis looks like a rainforest from above; from the street, trees and foliage completely block the house from view. Millison founded the permaculture design program at Oregon State University, and he aims to show neighbors the possibilities of abundant foliage on small lots, and to provide passersby with a browsable, edible landscape. “Permaculture is a road map to making your home and garden paradise,” he says. Or at least very leafy.
Less Is Mori
Portland’s reverence for forests is shared by the Japanese, so it’s little surprise that the concept of creating pocket-size forests emerged from Japan. The concept was born in the 1970s by plant ecologist Akira Miyawaki, who noticed that the small, undisturbed forests surrounding Shintō shrines, called chinju-no-mori, looked healthier than the tree plantations commonly installed after logging. Miyawaki developed an approach to reforestation that involves restoring soils and then planting very densely. How densely?? I hear you asking. A robust 20,000–30,000 trees per hectare is the Miyawaki method; this comes out to around 8,000–12,000 trees per acre, which is 8–12 times denser than the norm for reforesting timberlands … or roughly one tree for every 3–5 square feet.
Planting trees in a clump is not unlike sowing a vegetable garden bed with a few seeds per hole. Once started, tiny forests fill vertical space fast. Think of the scene in My Neighbor Totoro, when Satsuki and Mei look out the window one moonlit night to see Totoro and friends marching around a small garden where the girls have planted acorns, coaxing the soil to spring forth. Within moments, seedlings sprout and magically burst into a thick grove of giant trees. It doesn’t happen quite that fast in real life, but that’s not much of an exaggeration. A tiny forest usually goes from bare earth to lush copse in just a couple of years, substantially faster than on tree plantations. Some keep growing beyond one property. In Southeast Portland’s Sunnyside neighborhood, Evrim Icoz shares a property line with Esther Lev, a retired executive director of the Wetlands Conservancy, and their unfenced, naturescaped yards blend into one contiguous habitat. His plants are “really happy, so they tend to take over a little bit sometimes,” Icoz says. “The bleeding hearts and the Oregon grape escape to my neighbor’s yard.”
Yet even wayward tiny forests have many benefits. At a small scale, thick patches of trees sequester carbon and improve air quality, slow stormwater, and cool the air. They also look really neat. But they do function differently than typical forests. Survival rates are initially fairly high—85 to 90 percent for the first three years—though that number drops precipitously once you cut irrigation (you’re supposed to water for three years), and dips again as the trees grow and begin to self-thin, which happens when trees compete for sunlight, soil, and moisture. And trees alone do not make a diverse forest: in wild forests, a diversity of tree, shrub, and herbaceous species occupy distinct vertical niches, called strata. Free-growing forests rotate through sequences of ecological communities over time, while tiny forests mostly maintain the species that you plant. Adding shrubs and flowering plants from the beginning will bring that I-am-a-jungle-dweller feel.
Why go for tiny forests in a tree-loving town like Portland? It’s easy to assume all is well with Portland trees. Our darling (yet unimaginatively named) Forest Park is one of the largest urban greenspaces in the world. And walk around beyond downtown and you’ll see very average-size lots randomly dotted with massive trees, like the three 150-plus-year-old giant sequoias in Save the Giants Park, or the odd forested natural area that isn’t a designated park (we’re looking at you, River View Natural Area). But tree canopy in Portland dropped between 2015 and 2020, losing 823 acres. Though that’s a less than 1 percent loss in total tree cover, it’s the wrong direction. We also have some of the smallest backyards in America, so tiny forests might be all we can muster. Small collective actions have big benefits.
Patches of mature trees still exist, left standing by housing developers of yore, especially in the West Hills, to facilitate scenic views and better bird-watching. Drive through pretty much any suburban subdivision and you’ll doubtless see what appears to be a tiny forest—and is actually a compensatory mitigation site, replanted by requirement, after developments impacted wetlands or waterways.
But classic, Miyawaki-method tiny forests are rare here, especially at companies or organizations—in fact, Catlin Gabel School has the only one in the city, and it was planted two years ago. Portland has largely had to rely on homeowner altruism (and the hypothetical lure of increased property values) to prioritize trees. It’s 100 percent legal to grow a tiny forest at your house. No permit is required to plant trees on private property (unless you’re planting designated nuisance species like holly or English hawthorn, which you wouldn’t want to do anyway). The city provides a helpful official list of suggested trees and shrubs. Tiny forests don’t need to include food plants, but Millison appreciates edible tiny forests, which can also support wildlife corridors and pollinator habitats. He shies away from native-plants-only ideology, especially in urban and suburban settings. “We don’t just eat native plants,” he says. “If you’re buying food from the grocery store, then you’re displacing native plants from somewhere else.”
It’s worth mentioning possible drawbacks. First, anyone who loves gardening knows that plants are expensive. However, you can get free (or nearly free) permits to collect native plants under two feet tall for personal use in many of Oregon’s state and national forests—you just have to drive out and dig them up yourself (and follow the rules about which species you can take). You’ll probably need to amend your soil, and newly planted areas will require irrigation for years, so factor that into your cost estimate. (On the plus side, it’ll be too shady for you to grow many vegetables, so you’ll save on tomato starts!)
Densely planted areas can also create an “if you build it, they will come” situation. In my decade working as a wetland mitigation specialist, almost all the urban restoration sites and natural areas I monitored faced anthropogenic impacts, from illegal dumping to camping. And hungry deer and rodents can annihilate a freshly planted site with a merciless quickness.
A final consideration: your neighbors might think it’s ugly. My own have griped about my trees along their property line; I simply remind them that birds need a place to hide from their cats. And a bit of neighbor tension is a small price to pay for living in leafy paradise. “The world could be a garden of Eden,” says Millison, “if we choose to make it one.”
How to build a tiny forest of your own
Read up on Miyawaki. Start with Mini-Forest Revolution by Hannah Lewis.
Pick the right plants. If you’re envisioning a haven where birds hide from outdoor cats (or you fancy heavy metal naturescaping), think about a thicket of spiny plants like black hawthorn, Nootka rose, Oregon grape, devil’s club, and stinging nettle. Hot and dry spots aren’t ideal for moisture-loving Pacific willow, red alder, or western red cedar; in shady sites, keystone species like Douglas fir and Oregon white oak will suffer.
Add zones. Put edible or fragrant plants closer to human paths, and native plants further away, where they can sit densely and provide greater benefit.
Team up. The Facebook group Friends of Backyard Habitats for greater Portland (11,000 members) is where many neighbors partner up to maximize efforts.
Get certified. The Backyard Habitat Certification Program, a partnership between the Bird Alliance of Oregon and Columbia Land Trust, offers on-site guidance and coupons for native plants, and you’ll even get a little yard plaque to lord over your neighbors.
Don’t forget a rain garden. Tiny forests slow down storm runoff before it enters sewers and streams. Check with the Portland Bureau of Environmental Services for information on creating a rain garden. The city even provided free native shrubs and groundcovers when its team installed my rain garden back in 2018, and let me choose the species. Planting trees also earns you a discount on your sewer bill.
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What it is: Taiwan-founded bubble tea chain Chicha San Chen has opened its first Oregon location at Cedar Hills Crossing in Beaverton, serving freshly brewed tea drinks with toppings such as konjac and taro balls. When it opened: September 6 Where it is: 3205 SW Cedar Hills Boulevard #8 Learn more: Chicha San Chen
What it is: A Richmond neighborhood lounge in the former Sessionable space serving limoncello and Aperol spritzes alongside dishes including house-made minestrone soup and bruschetta. When it opened: September 2 Where it is: 3588 SE Division Street Learn more: 1919
What it is: This Northwest District restaurant makes steamed and pan-fried dumplings with fillings like Carlton Farms pork, Painted Hills beef, curry chicken, corn cheese, and miso mushroom veggie. When it opened: September 1 Where it is: 1902 NW 24th Avenue Learn more: Dodo Dumpling Is Coming to NW Portland
What it is: An outpost of Japan-born conveyor belt sushi chain Kura Revolving Sushi Bar is now open at Beaverton Town Square. When it opened: September 1 Where it is: 11703 SW Beaverton Hillsdale Highway Learn more: Kura Revolving Sushi Bar
What it is: This daytime cafe in Slabtown serves bagel sandwiches, croissant sandwiches, baked goods from La Provence, coffee drinks, and fresh juices. When it opened: August 28 Where it is: 2031 NW Front Avenue Learn more: Le Petit Cafe PDX
What it is: Matta owner Richard Le, Portland Ca Phe owner Kim Dam, and HeyDay owner Lisa Nguyen have teamed up to open this Vietnamese American brunch spot with dishes like fried chicken on a pandan waffle, breakfast burritos with fish sauce bacon, and black sesame cinnamon rolls. When it opened: August 24 Where it is: 1495 NE Alberta Street Learn more: This New Vietnamese American Cafe Will Blend McDonald’s Breakfast With Pandan Waffles
What it is: This Division Street cheese shop sells cheese by the pound and serves customizable cheese boards with charcuterie. When it opened: August 24 Where it is: 3320 SE Division Street Learn more: A New Richmond Cheese Shop Will Carry 75 Types of Cheese
What it is: A Central Texas-style barbecue cart serving Frito pie, Texas red chili, brisket sandwiches, and barbecue plates has opened at Cartside Food Carts. When it opened: August 16 Where it is: 1825 N Williams Avenue Learn more: The Smokin’ Oak
For this and more local foodie news, please visit PDX.Eater.com
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It took what felt like forever to spot him. I was pretty sure I had identified the correct tree, but the correct branch? The tree had so many branches! And they were all covered in leaves! But finally—
“Oh!” I gasped. “Oh.” For there was the purple finch, and the tiny thing was beautiful: a little ball of a bird that to my eye looked more rose red than purple. Through my binoculars I watched him swivel his head, then throw it back—what an adorably chunky beak he had—as he began to trill. His feathered throat pulsed. Mine froze in awe.
My first outing with Güero Bird Club was off to a cracking start. Yes, that Güero: I’d gathered early that morning with about 10 others, Gen Z to boomer, for a birdsong walk organized by Audrey Tawdry, kitchen manager of the popular Kerns torta shop. (No tortas were served, but Tawdry brought coffee and mini muffins.) Over the next two hours, as we weaved slowly through Kelley Point Park, I marveled at the weird and delightful descriptions unleashed by my fellow birders. House finches, Tawdry said, have a song that reminds her of Benson Bubblers. Swallows, said someone else, sound like ray guns. The brown-headed cowbird? That one’s a TV turning on. We used our eyes, too, of course. Someone pointed out two American goldfinches perched high in a tree like lemon drops. For many minutes, we simply watched a bald eagle that had landed near us, its back turned but its face in profile, the sharp hook of its enormous beak slicing the air.
Sometimes Güero Bird Club outings draw just a few people. Sometimes they draw more than 40.
The bird-watching boom could have been a pandemic blip, a hobby for the stressful but stagnant days of lockdown. But the old-fashioned pursuit has held on. In part this is thanks to newfangled tools such as Merlin, an app with an amazing (though imperfect) ability to identify birds by sound; it’s seen more than 10 million new users since the Sound ID function, developed by the Cornell Lab of Ornithology, was added in 2021. And, in Portland, it’s also thanks to groups like Güero Bird Club, just one of many grassroots bird-watching gangs turning novices into nerds.
On that morning with the purple finch, I felt the pull.
The bird-watching bug bit Tawdry when she was a senior in college in Binghamton, New York. She and her best friend had signed up for a biology class taught by a hippie wetlands ecologist and a vest-wearing British entomologist. Students received a CD with about a dozen local birdsongs on it, and Tawdry played hers as she drove friends around in her 2001 silver Volkswagen Beetle.
“I would probably fit, like, seven college kids in at once, and I’d always have my birdsongs on,” she says. “I still remember those songs.”
Her aunt and uncle gave her binoculars for graduation, and she had her own moment of awe that summer, at a park near her childhood home in the Hudson Valley. As sunset approached, a yellow-shafted flicker flew by. “I remember seeing this gold flash underneath their wings and gasping,” she says.
She took to carrying her binoculars everywhere, which meant that looking at birds “just kind of followed [her] around,” including on her 2015 move to Portland. But the idea of assembling a flock didn’t spark until 2020, when the city was in lockdown and Güero was doing a brisk takeout business. She and then-coworker Greg Smith, who also happens to be a seabird biologist, were constantly swapping reports. Owner Megan Sanchez noticed. “She would hear us and be like, ‘Did you bring enough to share?’” Tawdry says. “I guess we made it sound fun.”
No binoculars? Güero Bird Club has spares to share.
Güero Bird Club officially launched in 2021. Three years in, the format is largely unchanged. Weekly walks, which are free and open to all, take place year-round, in both morning and evening, at one of any avian hot spots in Portland: Mount Tabor, Oaks Bottom, Powell Butte. Tawdry provides binoculars to those who need them. After coffee, socializing, and quick intros, the group strolls for about two hours, pausing often.
The simplicity and consistency are part of the appeal. But each outing takes on a different flavor. A few weeks after my birdsong walk, I joined a Wednesday gathering at Whitaker Ponds, a nature park in the Cully neighborhood. This time I gawked at the fancy feathers worn by a great white egret; the breeding plumage looked to me like a ballerina’s long tulle skirt. I learned from Tawdry that flycatchers hatch with innate knowledge of their song, unlike most other birds that learn it from their parents, and from another member of the group about the carpenter bees that shimmered iridescent green on a decaying log.
The bird-watching boom could have been a pandemic blip, but the pursuit has held on.
Inspired, I began carrying my binoculars on neighborhood walks. Suddenly I was the one pointing out goldfinches. My ears, too, began to parse one sound from another. I finally understood the song sparrow’s mic check—the bird, which abounds in Portland, has a way of announcing itself with a few clanging notes before dashing into something more melodic.
While birding alone had its pleasures, I missed the collective knowledge of the group, the experience of shared wonder. Tawdry’s main goal with Güero Bird Club is to encourage curiosity, and she describes what she does as hosting: she makes a plan, disarms by explicitly inviting oohs and aahs, and then steps back. Sometimes she greets a mere handful on a frigid February morning. Other times it’s a blowout, as on a Sunday in May when I found myself among more than 40 others, moving amoeba-like up the slopes of Mount Tabor.
The party, admittedly, was too big. But at the summit, we spread out. Many were drawn to a regal pair of bald eagles. Others delighted at a red-breasted nuthatch dancing up and down the trunk of a tree. I hung back for a moment and watched not the birds but the people watching the birds—watched as they flapped their arms, summoning others to come see the cool thing they could see. “Objectively the cutest, most wholesome thing in Portland,” said Morgan Quirk, an architectural historian I’d met that morning. “I can’t get enough.”
Neither can I.
Gateway Birds: Five feathered friends that call Portland home
Anna’s Hummingbird
Tough, tiny, year-round Portland resident. Buzzy, high-pitched song recalls an exceptionally squeaky door hinge. Males sport brilliant magenta feathers from throat to head and court potential mates with dramatic dive-bombs.
Northern Flicker
Brownish, distinctively spotted woodpecker likely drumming in a backyard near you. Typically nests in holes in trees (in early summer, listen for nestlings chirping nonstop). Frequently found rooting in leaf litter for ants. Look for red mustache on males and black bib on all.
Dark-Eyed Junco
Abundant, energetic, seed-eating sparrow. Often seen hopping on ground and darting in underbrush. Vast geographic variation: all juncos have pinkish bills and white tail feathers that flash in flight; Oregon’s dark-eyed form has handsome black hood, brown back, and whitish belly. Ticking, metallic trill.
Wood Duck
Striking, ornately patterned duck living in watery habitat across Portland. Significantly smaller than mallards (ducklings, accordingly, are stupid cute). Nests in tree cavities. Males wear iridescent purple and green; females have eyes ringed in white.
Cooper’s Hawk
Crow-sized raptor with a barrel-shaped body, steely face, and sharply hooked beak. In flight, look for long tail feathers edged in white. Fast, stealthy, and possibly preying on other birds at your backyard feeder.
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Linn-Benton Community College is finding ways to teach math in more applied ways, so that students can pick up those skills and get into the workplace.
It’s 7:15 on a cold gray Monday morning in May at Linn-Benton Community College. Math professor Michael Lopez, in a hoodie and jeans, a tape measure on his belt, paces in front of the 14 students in his “math for welders” class.
“I’m your OSHA inspector,” he says. “Three sixteenths of an inch difference, you’re in violation. You’re going to get a fine.”
Linn-Benton Community College math professor Michael Lopez helps a student work through an algorithm for calculating ladder rung placement in his math for welders class.
Jan Sonnenmair for The Hechinger Report
He’s just given them a project they might have to do on the job: figure out the rung spacing on an external steel ladder that attaches to a wall. Thousands of dollars are at stake in such builds, and they’re complicated: Some clients want the fewest possible rungs to save money, others a specific distance between steps. To pass inspection, rungs must be evenly spaced to within one sixteenth of an inch, the top rung exactly flush with the top of the wall.
The exercise could be an algebra problem, but Lopez gives them a six-step algorithm that doesn’t use algebraic letters and symbols. Instead, they get real-world industry variables: tolerances, basic rung spacing, wall height.
Lopez breaks the class into five teams. Each team is assigned different wall heights and client specs, and they get to work calculating where to place the rungs. Lopez will inspect each team’s work and pass or fail the job.
Math is a giant hurdle for most community college students pursuing welding and other career and technical degrees. About a dozen years ago, Linn-Benton’s administration looked at their data and found that many students in career and technical education, or CTE, were getting most of the way toward a degree but were stopped by a math course, said the college’s president, Lisa Avery. That’s not unusual: Up to 60 percent of students entering community college are unprepared for college-level work, and the subject they most often need help with is math.
The college asked the math department to design courses tailored to those students, starting with its welding, culinary arts and criminal justice programs. The first of those, math for welders, rolled out in 2013.
More than a decade later, welding department instructors say that math for welders has had a huge impact on student performance. Since 2017, 93% of students taking it have passed, and 83% have achieved all the course’s learning goals, including the ability to use arithmetic, geometry, algebra and trigonometry to solve welding problems, school data show. Two years ago, Linn-Benton asked Lopez to design a similar course for its automotive technology program; they began to offer that course last fall.
Robert Van Etta, a student in Linn-Benton Community College’s math for welders class, marks out the spacing for ladder rungs, part of a lesson in using algebraic concepts to solve real-world challenges.
Jan Sonnenmair for The Hechinger Report
Math for welders changed student Zane Azmane’s view of what he could do.
“I absolutely hated math in high school. It didn’t apply to anything I needed at the moment,” said Azmane, 20, who failed several semesters of math early in high school but last year got a B in the Linn-Benton course. “We actually learned equations I’m going to use, like setting ladder rungs,” he said.
Linn-Benton’s aim is to change how students pursuing technical degrees learn math by making it directly applicable to their technical specialties.
Some researchers think these small-scale efforts to teach math in context could transform how it’s taught more broadly.
Among strategies to help college students who struggle with math, giving them contextual curriculums seems to have “the strongest theoretical base and perhaps the strongest empirical support,” according to a 2011 paper by Columbia University Teachers College researcher Dolores Perin. (The Hechinger Report is an independent unit of Teachers College.)
Perin’s paper echoed the results of a 2006 study of math in CTE involving 131 CTE high school teachers and almost 3,000 students. Students in the study who were taught math through an applied approach performed significantly better on two of three standardized tests than those taught math in a more traditional way. (The applied math students also performed better on the third test, though the results didn’t reach the statistical significance threshold.)
So far, there haven’t been systematic studies of math in CTE at the college level, said James Stone, director of the National Research Center for Career and Technical Education at the Southern Regional Education Board, who ran the 2006 study.
Keith Perkins, right, works through an algorithm for calculating ladder rung spacing in Linn-Benton Community College’s math for welders class.
Jan Sonnenmair for The Hechinger Report
Stone explained how math in context works. Students start with a practical problem and learn a math principle for solving it. Next, they use the principle to solve a similar practical problem, to see that it applies generally. Finally, they apply the principle on paper, in say, a standardized test.
“I like to say math is just like a wrench: It’s another tool in the toolbox to solve a workplace problem,” said Stone. “People learn almost anything better in context because then it has meaning.”
Linn-Benton dean Steve Schilling offers an example. Carpenters use a well-known 3-4-5 rule to get a square corner — lay out two boards at a square angle and mark one board at 3 feet and the other at 4 feet. Now a straight line joining the two marks should measure exactly 5 feet — if it doesn’t, the boards are out of square.
The rule is based on the Pythagorean theorem, a method for calculating the lengths of a right triangle’s sides: a2 + b2 = c2. When explaining to students why the theorem describes the rule, the instructor uses math terms — “adjacent side,” “opposite side,” “hypotenuse” — that they’ll need to use on a math test, said Schilling. When using practical skills like the 3-4-5 rule on a project, “at first, they don’t even realize they’re doing math,” he said.
Oregon appears to be one of the few places where this approach is spreading, if slowly.
Three hours south of Linn-Benton, Doug Gardner, an instructor in the Rogue Community College math department (he is now its chair), had long struggled with a persistent question from students: “Why do we need to know this?”
The answer couldn’t just be that they needed it for their next, higher-level math class, Gardner said. “It became my life’s work to have an answer to that question.”
Meanwhile, Algebra I was a huge barrier for many Rogue Community College students. About a third of those taking the course or a lower-level math course failed or withdrew. That meant they had to retake the class and likely stay another term to graduate; since many were older students with families and obligations, hundreds dropped out, school administrators said.
For those who stayed, lack of math knowledge hurt their job skills. Pipe fitters, for example, are among the higher-paid welders, said welding department chair Todd Giesbrecht, but they need a solid understanding of the math involved.
“Whether they’re making elbows, whether they’re making dump truck bodies, they’re installing steam pipe, all of those things involve math,” he said.
So, in 2010, Gardner applied for and got a National Science Foundation grant to create two new applied algebra courses. Instead of abstract formulas, students would learn practical ones: how to calculate the volume of a wheelbarrow of gravel and the number of wheelbarrows needed to cover an area, or how much a beam of a certain size and type will bend under a certain load.
Math proficiency is critical to jobs in welding and other technical fields, but a huge hurdle for most community college students pursuing career and technical degrees. Some colleges have succeeded in improving math learning by tailoring instruction to those technical fields.
Jan Sonnenmair for The Hechinger Report
Since then, the pass rate in the applied algebra class has averaged 73 percent while that of the traditional course has continued to hover around 59 percent, according to Gardner. Even modest gains like that are hard to achieve, said Navarro Chandler, a dean at the college.
“Any move over 2%, we call that a win,” he said.
One day in May, math professor Kathleen Foster was teaching applied algebra in a sun-drenched classroom on Rogue’s wooded campus and launched into a lesson about the Pythagorean theorem and why it’s an essential tool for building home interiors and steel structures.
She presented the formula, then jumped to illustrated exercises: What’s the right length for diagonal braces in a lookout tower to ensure that the structure will hold? What length does the diagonal top plate for a stair wall need to be to ensure that the wall’s corners are perfectly square?
James Butler-Kyniston, 30, who is pursuing a degree as a machinist, said that the exercises covered in Foster’s class are directly applicable to his future career. One exercise had them calculate how large a metal sheet you would need to manufacture a certain number of parts at one time, a skill he’s used in the lab.
“Algebraic formulas apply to a lot of things, but since you don’t have any examples to tie them to, you end up thinking they’re useless,” he said.
Unlike at Linn-Benton, students at Rogue in any degree field can take this course, so some of the applied examples don’t work for everyone. Butler-Kyniston said he thinks applied math works better if it’s tailored to a specific set of majors.
Still, Foster’s class could rescue the college plans of at least one student. Kayla LeMaster, 41, is on her second try at a two-year degree. She had to drop out in 2012 after getting injured in a house fire. She’s going for a degree that will let her transfer to the University of Oregon to major in psychology; she hopes to eventually work as a school counselor or in some other job supporting kids.
But her graduation from Rogue hangs by a thread because she needs a math credit. She struggled in the traditional algebra class and had to withdraw, and the same happened in a statistics course. Applied algebra is her last chance.
“When you add the alphabet to math, it doesn’t make sense,” she said. By contrast, in the examples in Foster’s class, “you get into that work mode, a job site somewhere, and you can see the problem in your head.” She got an A on her first test. “I’m getting it,” she said.
Gardner worries about the consequences of the traditional abstract approach to teaching math. When he was in college, “nobody ever showed me one formula that calculated anything really interesting,” he said. “I just think we’re doing a terrible job. Applied math is so fun.”
Oregon’s leaders appear to see merit in teaching math in context. In 2021, state legislators passed a law requiring all four-year colleges to accept an applied math community-college course called Math in Society as satisfying the math requirement for a four-year degree. In that course, instead of studying theoretical algebra, students learn how to use probability and statistics to interpret the results in scientific papers and how political rules like apportionment and gerrymandering affect elections, said Kathy Smith, a math professor at Central Oregon Community College.
“If I had my way, this is how algebra would be taught to every student, the applied version,” said Gardner. “And then if a student says, ‘This is great, but I want to go further,’ then you sign up for the theoretical version.”
At the level of individual schools, lack of money and time constrain the spread of applied math. Stone’s team works with high schools around the country to design contextual math courses for career and technical students. They tried to work with a few community colleges, but their CTE faculty, many of whom are part-timers on contract, didn’t have time to partner with their math departments to come up with a new curriculum, a yearlong process, Stone said.
Linn-Benton was able to invest the time and money because its math department was big enough to take on the task, said Avery. And both Linn-Benton and Rogue may be outliers because they have math faculty with technical backgrounds: Lopez worked as a carpenter and sheriff’s deputy and served three tours as a machine gunner in Iraq, and Gardner was a construction contractor who still designs houses.
“I have up to 16 house plans in the works during construction season,” he said.
Back in Lopez’s class, on a sunny Wednesday, students are done calculating where their ladder rungs should go and now must mark them on the wall. One team struggles. “I don’t understand any of this,” says Keith Perkins, 40, who’s going for a welding degree and wants to get into the local pipe fitters union.
“I know, but you’re not doing the steps in the right order,” says Lopez. “Walk me through it. Tell me what you did, starting with step 1.”
As teams finish up, Lopez inspects their work. “That’s one thirty-second shy. But I wouldn’t worry too much about it,” he tells one group. “OSHA’s not going to knock you down for that.”
Three teams pass, two fail — but this is the place to make mistakes, not out on the job, Lopez tells them.
“This stuff is hard,” said Perkins. “I hated math in school. Still hate it. But we use it every day.”
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